Online Mens Tailor And Custom Tailoring
Common Questions about Product Features
22) What are working buttons/functioning buttons?
23) Can you do Large loose shirts ? Can you to Tight or fitted Shirts ? Loose baggy slacks? Snug fit pants ? Boxy Jackets?
24) What are the minimal size requirements for Shirts ? Jackets ? Pants ? Vests ?
25) What is a Burn Test? How do I test a fabric?
26) I want half lined or fully lined pants and jackets.
27) I am unable to submit an order Online; the site is not taking my order! What should I do?
28) I have a particular fabric in mind, how do I search for it?
29) How do I add custom choices such as monograms, buttons, lining, etc., to pieces selected in the wardrobe specials?
30) What does NOA mean?
- Does My Custom Tailor make custom clothes with fabric I provide?
Yes. This is called CMT work or in other words Cut Make Trim work. Prices and how to place CMT orders are displayed in our CMT pages here.
Before sending the fabric to us, you would need to place a CMT order and use the reference number of that order when shipping the cloth to us. To send the fabric to us, follow the instructions outlined below:
a. Pack the materials in as small a package as possible and include your name, address, telephone number and Customer ID within the package. The customer ID is the number you find in the subject field of any email received from us.
b. Send it by registered/certified airmail. Please do not use a courier.
Please put a low value on the package, under USD 15 for example.
c. Declare the item as old clothing of no commercial value for sampling purposes only.
d. Include a note in the package that outlines the order in as much detail as possible.
Remember to include any special requests for any of the items such as hand-stitched lapels and pockets on jackets, working sleeve buttons on jackets, contrast linings on jackets and vests, monograms on jackets, vests or shirts and any other specifications you want. These options are available at a small premium, which will be added to your order totals
e. Please contact us and let us know when the fabric has been sent to us so that we can keep an eye out for it.
f. You would need to have the measurements submitted by setting up measurements profiles by logging into the MyAccounts feature on our website.
Alternatively, you may want to include well fitting sample garments in the package for replication of measurements and/or styles from your sample garments. - What are working buttons/functioning buttons?
This refers to buttons on the sleeves of a jacket, coat or suit being constructed to allow for the sleeve cuffs to open up and the sleeves to be folded up. When a suit jacket or blazer has working sleeve buttons, the wearer is able to undo the buttons and let the sleeve cuffs drape loosely or fold the sleeves away from the hand. This is a great functionality to have, especially on snug fit jackets and suits or when working in a wet environment and not wanting to wit the coat sleeves.
Actuating sleeve buttons were introduced by the medical profession during the Crimean Wars when medical work was very messy and good suits were getting spoiled in the trenches.
Working or functioning buttons are created by hand, by embroidering or crocheting tight stitches (usually with linen or silk thread) over a knob or ring called a form. - Can you do Large loose shirts ? Can you to Tight or fitted Shirts ? Loose baggy slacks? Snug fit pants ? Boxy Jackets?
Since we are custom tailors, we custom make to measure any style of large loose shirts, tight shirts, fitted shirts, loose baggy slacks, snug fit pants, boxy Jackets or any other particular fit request you submit. As with any garment request, you need to submit a complete set of measurements, using the measurements forms that can be accessed by logging into the MyAccounts section. - What are the minimal size requirements for Shirts ? Jackets ? Pants ? Vests ?
We suggest you submit the following minimal size requirements via our measurements forms:
For Shirts, they are:
a. your height
b. chest circumference off the body
c. stomach circumference off the body
d. hips circumference off the body
e. shoulder width off the body
f. sleeve length
g. neck circumference off the body
For Pants and trousers, they are:
a. waist circumference for the pants taken off the body at exactly the position on the waist that the pants are to be worn
b. hips circumference at the widest part of the buttocks taken off the body and with one finger between the body and the tape.
c. Out seam length taken from the top of the waist band to the lowest edge of the pant cuff down the side of the pants taken vertically. Remember to check the position that the pants are to be worn at before taking this size as overall length will be affected if inaccurate.
d. U crutch taken from the top of the waist band in front, down between the legs and up to the top of the waist band at the back.
Remember to spread the legs sufficiently to prevent the tape from snagging between the thighs and remember to take it as comfortably as you desire the pants to be in this area.
e. Thighs - finished size to be taken off another pair of pants that fit well and is to be taken around 2 inches below the U crutch joint. This is the circumference of the legs at the widest part.
f. Bottoms- is the circumference of the pants at the cuffs and can be taken off another well fitting pair of pants.
For Jackets, they are:
a. your height
b. chest circumference off the body
c. stomach circumference off the body
d. hips circumference off the body
e. shoulder width off the body
f. sleeve length
g. neck circumference off the body
h. back width taken from where the arm joins the back on one side to where the back and arm joins on the other side.
For Vests, they are:
a. front length from top of shoulder where it meets the neck to the tip of the V at the bottom
b. back length from the nape of the neck at the back to the edge of the vest/waistcoat, typically 2 to 3 inches below waistline
c. chest for men and upper bosom for women + bosom for women at the level of the nipples
d. stomach for men/narrowest part of the torso for women
e. hips for men/ stomach for women at the navel level + hips for women at the widest part
f. shoulders from one end to the other
g. neck circumference
h. armhole for women off the body and circumference of the armhole desired on the vest.
These measurements are straight forward and can easily be taken by your self using a measurements tape. - What is a Burn Test? How do I test a fabric?
Burn Test - CAUTION. WARNING. BE CAREFUL! This should only be done by skilled burners! Make sure there is a bucket of water nearby and that you burn in a metal bucket or non-plastic sink.
To identify fabric that is unknown, a simple burn test will determine if the fabric is a natural fiber, man made fiber, or a blend of natural and man made fibers. The burn test is used by many fabric stores and designers but it takes practice to determine the exact fiber content. However, an inexperienced person can determine the difference between many fibers to "narrow" the choices down to natural or man made fibers. This elimination process will give information necessary to decide the care of the fabric. WARNING: All fibers will burn! Asbestos treated fibers are, for the most part, fire proof. The burn test should be done with caution. Use a small piece of fabric only. Hold the fabric with tweezers, not your fingers. Burn over a metal dish with soda in the bottom or even water in the bottom of the dish.
Some fabrics will ignite and melt. The result is burning drips which can adhere to fabric or skin and cause a serious burn.
- Cotton is a plant fiber. When ignited it burns with a steady flame and smells like burning leaves. The ash left is easily crumbled. Small samples of burning cotton can be blown out as you would a candle.
- Linen is also a plant fiber but different from cotton in that the individual plant fibers which make up the yarn are long where cotton fibers are short. Linen takes longer to ignite. The fabric closest to the ash is very brittle. Linen is easily extinguished by blowing on it as you would a candle.
- Silk is a protein fiber and usually burns readily, not necessarily with a steady flame, and smells like burning hair. The ash is easily crumbled. Silk samples are not as easily extinguished as cotton or linen.
- Wool is also a protein fiber but is harder to ignite than silk as the individual "hair" fibers are shorter than silk and the weave of the fabrics is generally looser. The flame is steady but more difficult to keep burning. The smell of burning wool is like burning hair. - I want half lined or fully lined pants and jackets.
All our jackets are fully lined though we can half line jackets if this is requested. All our pants are half lined in the front to the knees, though we can line them to the ankles if this is desired, for a small fee. Optional and added features requests are specified in the special request section of the order placement process and ordered via the accessories section. - I am unable to submit an order Online; the site is not taking my order! What should I do?
There are several things that could be holding up acceptance of your order. It may be that ´cookies´ are disabled on your computer or you may be part of a local network that prevents pages from showing on your computer. It is possible that a script is corrupted, preventing you from completing the transaction. Try emailing us the following order information emailed to us along with credit card information to process payment so we can manually input your order. We will then confirm the order onto your online profile, visible in the ´MyAccounts´ section of our website.
If you are unable to submit your measurements, email us a request for Measurements Forms so you can fill them out fax or email them back to us.
For manual order placement, email us the following details
- Items you wish to order
- Style number for each item
- Fabric number for each item
- Color for each item
- Any special requests for any of the items ordered
- Measurements can be submitted by logging into MyAccounts and using the links on the left menu. Or, you can fax us the measurement form which can be printed out and filled in. Our fax number is (66) 2 650 0956 where you would need to dial the international access code (it is 011 in the USA) and then the rest of the number. Include your name, email address, and customer ID.
Email us the following credit card information so that we can process payment.
- Credit card number
- Name on the card
- Expiration date
- Shipping address
- Billing address
- CVV number(the three digit number in reverse italics on the back of the card).
This information will allow us to manually enter your order and process it accordingly. - I have a particular fabric in mind, how do I search for it?
You can conduct quick searches for fabrics that work best in the clothes you want to order. Use the Fabric Search function to access the perfect materials.
Criteria such as fabric weights, fiber compositions, patterns and designs, climate of use and many other similar single or combination of criteria can be used to pinpoint the best fabric for your requirements. Single or multiple search criteria are used for the best results. The listed fabrics will show how popular each fabric has been, the collection that the fabric is from and pricing for custom made garments in that fabric. Use the Fabric Search feature to quickly and easily pinpoint the best fabrics for the clothes you want to order. - How do I add custom choices such as monograms, buttons, lining, etc., to pieces selected in the wardrobe specials?
All accessories are selected separately by clicking the shopping cart icon on the top right of the page and choosing the accessories link next to each item in the package. - What does NOA mean?
NOA means NO Allowance or it designates Finished Sizes. When measurements are submitted, they are deemed to have been taken directly from the body (unless otherwise specified) and so require additional allowances from 0.5 inches to 6 inches for comfort and freedom of movement. These amount of these allowances depends on the overall size of the wearer and the type of garment chosen. The acronym NOA signifies that a particular number is the Finished Measurement for the relevant dimension/area of the garment. A waist measurement of 42 NOA for pants means that the actual waist of the pants has been finished at 42 inches.
When you see a NOA size in your measurements portfolio, this indicates that the finished size of the relevant dimension is the indicated number. If you wish to denote that a certain part of the garment should be finished at XYZ inches, simply add the term NOA at the end of that number.
Alternatively you can use the lower portion of the measurements forms to indicate which of the measurements have been taken from a garment (and not from the body) so that the finished garment we construct has the same finished size as the garment you measured from.
If all the measurements you submit are taken from a garment that fits you well, simply use the Send Sizes to Copy forms linked from the Measurements Portfolio in your account.