Body Canvas
There are basically two types of canvas used; each type has a like medium and hard grade. The original consultation and the cloth would dictate which type and grade of canvas to be used. The two basic grades are woolen canvas and lining canvas
Hair Cloth
There are several different types and grades of hair cloth. My-Custom-Tailor uses ten different grades depending on the construction of the coat and the weight of the cloth. For simplicity, number 1 grade is very lightweight, number 2 is slightly heavier and number 10 is obviously the heaviest. We choose the most appropriate hair cloth based on the customer consultation and the type of cloth specified.
Domette
This is a fine cloth used to cover the hair cloth over the canvas to prevent the hair cloth from coming through the canvas and cloth. Some of the older tailors prefer felt to Domette but this is not good current technique. Customers don’t just want to just look good, they also want to feel good in what they are wearing.
Body Lining
There are dozens of body lining types to choose from, depending again on customer preference. Some choose pure silk lining but other frequently used linings are shown below -
- Acetate Poult - Black, White, Ivory and Greige Acetate Microfibre Lining
- Acetate/Bemberg Lining
- Acetate/Viscose Satin Lining
- Bemberg Taffeta Shot Lining
- Bemberg Twill Lining
- Silk/Viscose Linings
- Viscose/Acetate Shot Twill Lining
- Viscose Rayon Heavy Twill - Military Cols.
- Viscose S/L Regency Stripes
- Viscose Satin Lining - Tailoring shades
- Viscose Twill Lining
Ermazine Lining – Viscose
- Colored Linings
Linen
There are several types of linen, depending on the type of cloth being used. Linen is commonly used on the backing of the pockets for strength and in the cuffs where the button holes and the buttons are sewn. It can also be used at the bottom of the jacket, on the back neck and on the back syes.
Pocketing
There are several different types, grades, and colors. We prefer to use a medium weight pocket with a color that matches the garment.
Collar Melton
This is the felt-like cloth found under the collar. Along with the collar canvas, the melton is used to complete the collar construction. The Collar Melton should always be cut on the bias and should be the same(or similar) color as the cloth. Some people choose to use complementary colors.
Collar Canvass
There are basically three types of collar canvas, type 1 is a linen canvas cut on the bias, a type used by Anderson & Sheppard (Savile Row). While this creates a very soft collar, it can appear messy if not constructed correctly.Type 2 is a medium-grade canvas which is much stiffer. Type 3 is a slightly harder canvas than type 2. When trying a garment on for the first time, it will look brownish.
Stay Tape (Linen)
Stay tape, made of linen, is used on the front edges of the coat. It functions to prevent the front edges from stretching or twisting. It should always be sewn on by hand.
Sleeve Head Wadding
This is a pre-made wadding specifically used to go around the sleeve head. Sleeve head wadding gives the roundness to a sleeve around your shoulders.
Shoulder Pads
Tailors have a choice of over 5000 shoulder pads but we use only three pads, made exclusively for us. We model them to meet our individual requirements.
Button Twist
Button twist is used to make button holes. There are thousands of colors, but most tailors use only one or two makes in seeking quality of twist.
Button Gimp
This is used when making button holes. The gimp is placed along the button hole and the button twist is sewn around the gimp, giving the button hole a slightly stiffer finish. There are several different grades of gimp.
Sewing Silk
Sewing silk is used for hand sewing of linings, the under collar where the melton attaches itself to the cloth, and in attaching shoulders and sleeves.
Other commonly asked questions about Common Terms, Names, Processes in Custom Tailoring